A Foodie's Guide to Sham Shui Po

Sham Shui Po rarely makes the front page of visitor guides, which is exactly why it has held onto some of the most honest street food in Hong Kong.

Start on Pei Ho Street in the late morning, when the stalls are freshly stocked - look for cheung fun rolled to order and clay-pot rice cooked over charcoal.

Fuk Wing Street is worth a slower walk in the evening. Curry fish balls, stinky tofu, and grilled skewers all run a few dollars a portion, and the crowd is mostly local families rather than tourists.

Pair the eating with a browse through the district's fabric and button markets nearby on Yu Chau Street - it's one of the last places in the city where you can still buy cloth by the metre from a specialist.